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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.